A few quick pieces of advice
Before we get stuck into the nitty gritty details, here’s a few quick tips and pieces of advice that I wish I had known before we began …
- The van will take over your life - If, like us, you are completely new to the world of converting campervans or even using tools, then doing this conversion will take up your whole life. You will spend many evenings and nights trying to work out how to solve a problem, and panicking that you’ve done something wrong. This is normal, don’t worry.
- Everything can be learned online - YouTube has videos on how to carry out any stage of a campervan conversion. We vlogged our entire journey as well, you can view the full 13 week video series here.
- You will need some professional help - Installing electrics & gas is best done by a qualified professional. Not least for insurance purposes.
- Plan, plan, PLAN! - Watch, read and learn as much as possible before beginning the build and then create a very detailed plan for your desired van. Many things will be worked out along the way, but the more in-depth your plan to begin with, the easier your build will be.
- Order as much as possible now, and store it at home - Waiting for parts to arrive from suppliers is the biggest cause of delays on a DIY camper conversion. We waited weeks for items that we thought would take just a few days & it can put a complete halt to your build.
- Join Facebook groups - The number one best piece of advice I can give you is to join this group here - Self Build Campervans. Using the search field you can find answers to the most seemingly innocuous questions imaginable.
***To be clear, this is the rough step-by-step process that we followed with our van. Depending on your own chosen layout, and van, your steps will be different. But this is a pretty solid look at what to expect.***
Step 1: Set a budget
"How much does a van conversion cost?"
This is completely up to you, but as with anything, the more money you can save and use, the better.
In the end, it cost us roughly around £16,000 to convert our campervan in the UK.
This included absolutely everything including:
- The price of the van (£6,500)
- Any vehicle servicing
- Professional services (mechanic, gas engineer, auto electrician)
- Tools (we had nothing)
- Rent for a space to carry out the conversion
- All parts & equipment used
We have come across people who have spent a quarter of that amount, and people who have spent twice as much.
But as a very rough guide, £10,000 will get you a very nice conversion, not including the initial cost of the van.
If you want a simpler finish, and are happy to use second hand products and reclaim as much material as possible, then you could spend a lot less.
90% of the things in our van are brand new and are top of the range, seeing as we will be living in the van fulltime and have plans to drive it around the world.
Step 2: Find your van
Before you can even convert a van into a campervan, you need to actually FIND a suitable van!
If money isn’t an issue, then that helps as you can spend more money on the van itself, and getting a newer van with fewer mechanical issues.
Ours is a 2016 (56) plate LWB H2L3 Peugeot Boxer; so it was 4 years old at the time of purchase.
It’s the 435 version which means that it has additional extras such as built-in sat nav and reversing cameras (look at me bragging about my van).
It had 107,000 miles on the clock when we bought it and was in very good mechanical condition.
If you plan on using a LWB panel van as your base model, then here’s what we looked for & why we choose our van:
- Straight bodywork - it can be very expensive fixing big dents, especially if they are structural
- Around 100,000 miles on the clock - Any less than this and prices go up a lot higher. It also means the engine realistically has 100-200 thousand miles left on it, all depending on how it is cared for
- A good service history - Okay, I’m being a hypocrite here as our van came with no service history. However, we are fortunate enough to have a Ricky, who is a mechanical friend of the family with over 4 decades worth of experience looking after and servicing panel vans. And for the last 10 years or so, the company he worked for dealt exclusively with LWB Peugeot Boxers, so he knew exactly what to look for (so far, his judgement has been bang on).
- A Peugeot Boxer/Fiat Ducato/Citroen Relay - These 3 vans are all exactly the same, except they have different badges. The two most popular choices when converting a panel van are to go for one of these or a Mercedes Sprinter. We prefered the Boxer/Ducato/Relay as it is a metre shorter, but has a higher percentage of liveable space. Many people do go for the Sprinter, but they tend to be more expensive and you get relatively less workable space, despite the longer length. This is to do with the fact that it is RWD and as such the engine is built in length ways instead of sideways meaning it has a much bigger bonnet. There are other vans out there, such as the Renault Master and Ford Transit, so there is plenty of choice and variation in size.
For what we paid, we think we got an absolute bargain! Especially seeing as the demand for vans like this has exploded as everyone and their nan seems to be deciding to convert a campervan these days (as of October 2020, I keep reading more and more about how people are struggling to pick up vans for a decent amount).
Where do you find a van to convert in the UK?
1. Your best bet is Autotrader
They are by far the biggest used van site around and have some really helpful filtering tools.
I would search here at least 3 or 4 times a day, and it took about 2 weeks for this van to pop up.
To ensure you get the right van as soon as possible, be sure to set up saved search alerts. You can do this via your account and it allows you to save searches for the exact vans you are looking to buy, filtered by things like price and miles on the clock.
Then, when new vans that meet your criteria get listed, you can immediately jump on the phone and check them out.
I recommend you view vans immediately and be ready to buy! Great vans don’t pop up very often.
It’s best to set up a viewing that day, and take someone with you who knows what they are talking about. If you like it and it ticks all the boxes then buy there and then.
Otherwise there’s a very good chance someone will snatch it away from you.
Dozens of vans get listed on here every day all across the country, and many people use this and not Auto Trader when selling.
3. Word of mouth
Let all of your friends and family know that you are looking to buy a van and what sort of one you are looking for. You never know who is looking to sell one and you may be able to pick one up before it even gets listed online and gets loads of viewings.
Head on over to Facebook and post on there that you are looking, you’ll be surprised by just how lucky you may well be.
4. Local dealers
Within a 30-50 mile radius of where you live, there should be a whole bunch of used van dealerships. If you have a Google, you will find them and you can call them and see what they have in stock. If you leave your details and exactly what you are looking for, then they can give you a call as soon as something pops up.
5. Other forums/websites/groups
I’m not going to spend hours listing every forum, website and Facebook group that you can search through, so instead have a little search and see what pops up.
There are other websites like Autotrader and Gumtree that people list their vans on, they just may not be as frequently updated.
Your best bet here may be to find local buy & sell groups on Facebook and list what you are looking for on there.
A few final tips when buying your van
- When viewing any vans, take someone with you who knows exactly what to look for in terms of mechanical problems
- Be ready to buy when a good van pops up
- Check if the sale price includes VAT or not (this can mean an extra 20% on top of the list price)
- Consider buying a part-converted camper (this may already have some expensive & time consuming things done, like insulation)
- Take any potential vans for a proper test drive prior to purchase
- Ask to see a full service history and find out when the last MOT was
Step 3: Arrange insurance
I won’t dwell too much on this topic as I am by no means an expert, and the availability of insurance will depend on a number of different factors.
However, if you are arranging insurance for a conversion, then you will need “motorhome conversion” insurance.
A number of brokers offer this, and they have varying requirements in terms of the amount of time they allow you to complete the build in.
Our chosen insurer gave us a 3 month conversion policy, and we added on a couple of extras to our policy such as breakdown cover throughout Europe.
It’s worth spending a good day or so calling up all possible insurers and carefully comparing their policies before settling on your final choice.
We had a few good offers, and we ended up paying around £600 for a year's cover, which I was pretty happy with.
In comparison, if we were to insure the vehicle just as a van as opposed to a motorhome, we would have been looking at around twice that figure.
Here’s a few different motorhome brokers to get your search started …
- A Plan
- Adrian Flux (I think these guys are your best bet if you want to install a wood burning stove, but don’t quote me on that!)
- Just Kampers
Things that will affect your insurance premium
The topic of insurance comes up a lot in the various groups we are in, and here are a few noteworthy points I’ve picked up on:
- If you are under 25, policies are harder to come by and a lot more expensive
- If you are based in London, then many insurers simply won’t touch you
- If you are older, (maybe 40+) then it seems easier to get cheap insurance
Step 4: Design your layout
The biggest reason for converting our campervan was that it allowed us to create something entirely custom and based around our needs.
Here’s a few crucial things we wanted when building our van:
- A fixed bed - We hate putting a bed up and down every day
- An oven
- All of the controls (mainly heating) to be accessible from the bed
- A shower
- A second double bed, so friends could come and stay with us
- A large sink and draining board
- The largest possible rooflight above the bed
- A garage area
- A full off-grid electrical system - More on this later
I recommend you make your own list as well, as this makes planning it so much easier.
The biggest issue for us, was finding a way to squeeze all of these things in; namely the shower and two double beds.
I searched hundreds of YouTube videos and didn’t find a single one that fitted the bill.
The only existing solution we could see was to include a winched double bunk bed which would mean we couldn’t see through the rooflight.
In the end, the design we came up with was entirely unique and, as far as I’m aware, no one has a van like ours.
And you what … our van’s layout is awesome!
It definitely wouldn't be to everyone’s taste, but it fits our needs absolutely perfect and we are chuffed to bits with it.
So before you actually start putting pen to paper, it’s important that you research other vans and list exactly which features you want to include.
If you’ve never really spent much time in a camper, it may be worth hiring one for a week or two to see what you pick up on.
Most of our design features are based around those experiences.
Namely, the fact that we wanted all the controls right next to the bed, so that we could switch the heater on without getting up into the cold!
Just remember: anything is possible, just be creative.
When creating mockups for the layout, I used good old-fashioned pen & paper and, equally old-fashioned, “Paint” on my laptop.
My drawings were just as rudimentary as those drawings I used to make back in year 3, but it did the job!
However, if you want to take things to the next level and make your life a bit easier in the long run, you should probably check out some space designer apps/tools such as VanSpace.
I only discovered these tools once our van build was underway, but they definitely would have helped in creating precise mock-ups of what our van would actually look and feel like.
Step 5: Buy as much equipment as possible!
If I was to do another camper conversion, then the first thing I would do is take 2 days to order absolutely everything I could possibly think of and then find somewhere to store it.
I’m talking everything right through from tools, to major appliances, to wood, to tiny details such as nails, screws and adhesives.
Having to wait for things to be delivered and making countless trips to Screwfix and Toolstation easily added an extra 2 weeks onto our build.
Of course, there will always be more things to buy, especially if you’ve never converted a van before; but having as much as possible to start with will make the whole build faster and less stressful.
We did spend half a day ordering and collecting tools before we started and this was one of the best decisions we made.
For a detailed list of which tools we built check out this post I put together on which tools you should buy when converting a campervan.
Where to buy equipment for your van conversion:
- Local builders merchants - For all wood
- Toolstation, Screwfix & Wickes (in that order) - For the majority of tools, fitting, plumbing gear etc …
- Chandlery (they sell marine supplies) - For very specific parts (like “T” & “Y” connectors for hose connections)
- Amazon - For almost everything else in between (Here’s a link to the store page we created, which includes most of the actual items we used on our conversion. If you buy through some of the links then we get a small commision at no added expense to you, thank you in advance!)
- B&Q - for insulation (other than that, they are more expensive 99% of the time)
Step 6: Cut holes in your van
The first stage of converting your van into a campervan is to cut some big old holes in it!
For our van, this meant installing:
- A sliding side window (here's a useful video on us fitting a bonded window in our campervan)
- Two porthole windows in the back doors (check out this video of us installing our porthole windows)
- A Maxxair MaxxFan Deluxe in the roof
- A Midi Heki rooflight above the bed
It’s best to buy these items immediately as delivery times can be a few weeks, depending on stock.
But they do need to be in straight away as they affect the exact placement of everything else inside your van & would be a nightmare to install at a later stage.
The fact that your first main job includes cutting holes into your precious van can be daunting; I know it was for us!
My only advice would be to take it slow and easy.
Oh yeah, and maybe practice by cutting some wood first!
We used a jigsaw for all of the cuts in our van and they all went smoothly.
It definitely helped that we built a set of drawers for my room prior to beginning the van build, so I had a couple days worth of experience using the jigsaw.
Here’s some other tips when cutting into your van:
- Put masking tape down when making the cut - This protects the vans paintwork from getting scratched.
- Wear ear defenders - It is very loud!
- Cover your eyes and any exposed skin - Shards of metal kicking back can cause some real damage.
- Only cut on a dry clear day - Whatever you are putting in will need time to dry, so don’t install just before it’s likely to rain.
- Triple check your markings prior to cutting
- If you’re nervous, then ask someone else to do it - You really don’t want to mess this stage up
Step 7: Install seats (optional)
A key part of our design was having space for up to 4 people to travel in and sleep in the van.
The design we came up with included having an additional two seats in the back, which also doubled up as seats in the living area.
We got really lucky here as the garage that we bought the van from just happened to have a set of double seats leftover from a Ford Transit they had ripped out.
They were in great condition and cost us just £100.
We decided to pay the same garage to fit them for us as there are some requirements to bear in mind when installing seats in a van, namely that they have to be suitably installed.
Also, the exact positioning of the bolts through the chassis can be extremely awkward, and in our case required the van to be hoisted up.
We did search a local breakyard prior to buying the seats, but they didn’t have much there.
However, if you do need to buy some seats then I recommend checking locals yards or looking through listings on Facebook or sites like Gumtree.
Step 8: Lay the floor
The method we used to insulate and lay our floor is one that 99% of other van converters seem to do.
You basically want to lay Celotex (or Kingspan) insulation boards on the floor and then cover them in plywood.
There is some discussion as to whether or not to include wooden battens between the sheets in order to break them up and add some more support to the plywood above.
Many people don’t do this at all, and simply put down the Celotex and then ply straight on top.
For us, parts of the floor were very dinked up as the van had been used for hauling around heavy equipment.
So the approach we took allowed us to properly level it out; but ultimately it’s up to you.
If you buy a van that is new, then you can even save time and effort by laying the existing plywood flooring straight down back on top of the Celotex.
Our plywood floors and walls were very used and battered, so we had to carefully measure and cut out custom pieces for our floor; I did this using 9mm plywood.
Useful video: Insulating the floor in our campervan conversion
You don’t really want to be walking around on plywood all the time, so that’s why we went ahead and bought some vinyl flooring for our camper conversion.
We simply went to a local flooring supplier and looked through about a dozen catalogues until we found the design that we most liked.
It cost us just over £100 in the end; but you can definitely get it cheaper depending on which design you go for.
Surprisingly, laying this was one of the most stressful parts of the build.
We have about an hour's worth of footage of me losing my sh** when laying ours, as I messed up the cuts 3 or 4 times and it was only really by luck that we managed to get it to look as good as it does now.
There are 2 small parts of the floor that, if you look closely, you’ll notice they are patch up’s where I accidently cut away too much.
What annoyed me so much was that, as you cut it; if you mess up then there is nothing you can do to take that cut back.
You can pay someone to lay it for you if you like, and it may definitely save some stress.
However, if you have a basic square floor without added seats, then you should be fine.
What made it so tricky and complicated for us was that we already had to cut around the base for the extra seats and other boxed seating frame.
Be sure to lay your flooring as early as possible and then build everything else on top of this; this proved to be the best way to go.
Fitting the vinyl around the finished cabinets/bed/shower would have been a true nightmare and would have looked awful (+ wouldn’t have been as well waterproofed as it is).
Step 9: Build the frame
At this stage of turning a van into a camper, what you are doing is laying the structural foundation for everything else you build onto the walls.
It helps for you to have an exact idea of where everything in your van will be; namely:
- Work surfaces
This “stud work” will be behind the scenes but will be what all of these things are built onto.
If in doubt, the best thing to do is to add in as many support beams as possible, as when you clad onto them, they will be as solid as possible.
It’s hard to describe in too much detail, so instead I recommend watching this video below where I try to be as descriptive as possible with what we did.
Looking back, the 2 changes I would have made to how we did this studwork are:
- I would have put more behind where our main control panel/switches are, just above the kitchen area. The wall does flex slightly as you plug in to the outlets.
- I would have screwed strips of plywood onto the bottom of the ceiling mount/brackets instead of the whole convoluted 6mm metal bar thing. I think it would have been a lot easier and would have ultimately been more secure.
Useful video: Framing the walls in our van conversion
Step 10: Install electrics
Before you go any further, it’s now time to get your electrical setup installed. For this, you need 2 things:
- A qualified auto electrician who knows what the hell they are doing
- All of the electrical components you want to install and a diagram of where they will be
Creating the electrical setup in our van caused me more stress and sleepless nights than any other part of the build.
Because I knew absolutely NOTHING about how electrics worked.
And no matter how much I read and watched I still just couldn’t get my head around it.
Unfortunately, if you want to convert your own van AND save money AND have an awesome setup, you do need to spend the time learning the ins and outs so as to know what’s going on and how to fix small issues as they crop up in the future.
Because there is so much to talk about, I recommend you check out this blog post I wrote on campervan electrics for beginners.
For now, here is an even more dumbed down and basic overview of our setup:
(*I’ve included links to the exact products we bought and from which companies*)
Inputs (how we get electricity):
Batteries (how we store electricity):
Inverter (how we use 240v electricity):
- 1500 watt pure sine wave inverter (this powers any 240 volt appliances, which in our case goes to our water heater & 2 double-socket power outlets in the van)
12 volt appliances (where our electricity goes):
- 10 x ceiling lights
- 1 x waterproof bathroom light
- 2 x under-cabinet kitchen lights
- 2 x bedside reading lights
- 2 x bedside USB ports
- Propex HS2000 air heater
- Propex Malaga 5E water heater
- 80 litre Waeco 2 way compressor fridge (Dometic now own Waeco)
- Shurflo 30PSI water pump
- Maxxair MaxxFan
For a few reasons, I highly recommend you find a qualified auto electrician to fit all of your electrics.
- It is the safest possible option
- It may invalidate your insurance if you have a fire in the van and it’s caused by your dodgy electrics
- It will save you a LOT of time
- The finished product will be far better
It took us some effort finding the right guy, but in the end he proved to be so helpful and friendly, and we had to take the van back a couple times to fit a couple extra things we realised we needed.
It cost us £60/hour and took 7 hours in total for everything.
This sounds expensive but is the going rate for someone who knows what they are doing.
Worth ... every ... penny.
Useful video: Installing electrics in our camper conversion
Step 11: Insulate your campervan conversion
This is a crucial part of your van build; regardless of where you plan on travelling to in your van.
A well insulated van allows you to stay warm in cold climates, and also cooler in hot climates.
The insulation we went for was recycled plastic loft insulation from B&Q (we used about 7 rolls).
This is one of the few products I recommend you to buy from B&Q, as they are normally much more expensive than elsewhere.
However, in this case they work out much cheaper and it turns out that loads of people use the same stuff for their van.
In terms of holding it in place, this is where the stud work from two steps ago comes in really useful.
For most of the walls, you can simply tear to size and use the wooden battens to hold the insulation in place.
For parts where it falls or comes loose, use a spray-on contact adhesive to glue it down.
We did exactly this for the roof and it holds it well; especially once you add on the next part of the insulation … Thermo Van Liner (we used 20metres worth).
This stuff is really cool and acts, not only as additional insulation, but also as a vapour barrier; which allows everything to stay nice and dry despite condensation.
It also creates a nice flat finish across all parts of the van, and helps to hold in any wayward plastic insulation.
For any awkward to insulate parts of your van, you can use spray foam insulation; we used this for a few runners and had an absolute nightmare (Seriously, check out this part of our install video …); but it is good stuff once you get the hang of it.
Before we move on, it’s worth mentioning sound deadening, which is something we fitted below the insulation and against the panels of the van.
The idea behind this stuff is that it sticks straight onto larger pieces of sheet metal which would otherwise rattle and make noise when you drive along.
We ordered a pack of this stuff here from Dodo Matt (we used all 50 sheets) and stuck it against the panels and definitely made a difference when driving, before fitting all of the insulation.
It’s hard for us to now say how much of a difference it makes in the long run, once you’ve fitted cladding and whatnot; but it certainly doesn’t harm to have it there.
All I can say is that rattling panels when driving is not an issue we have, whether that’s because of the sound deadening or not I can’t guarantee.
Step 12: Clad the walls
By this stage of the build, we were really in full swing!
It feels like you’re finally getting somewhere as you finally have an insulated, wrapped shell that you can now build onto and start turning into a proper home.
We decided to clad the walls, which is a pretty popular choice. Some people choose to put plywood as walls instead, or even use reclaimed pallet wood.
The issue with pallet wood is that it can end up being quite a bit heavier, and does require a lot of work to treat and prepare.
In the end, we love our cladded walls and feel it creates a really homely feel.
Why use two different types?
Simply because Wickes ran out of stock!
There is very little difference in price or the finished product and they are almost identical, except the B&Q one is ever so slightly thinner.
If I had to recommend one to go for, I’d say go for Wickes, as the B&Q cladding tended to have more pieces in it that were unusable due to holes (an issue that many online reviews agree with).
Useful video: Cladding the walls in our campervan
How to fit cladding inside your camper van
You have two approaches here:
- Paint/varnish the cladding beforehand and then fit
- Fit the cladding first and then paint
We took approach number 1 for the roof and approach number 2 for the walls.
If we ever did another van build, I would 100% take approach number 2!
Sliding together pieces of cladding that have already been varnished is an absolute nightmare! The tongues get thicker, the grooves get narrower and the wood bows slightly.
You can attach the cladding directly onto the wooden battens that you set up in step 9.
We put our Thermo Van Liner over the battens, and then when fitting the cladding, we nailed or screwed straight through and it worked perfectly!
When all connected together, cladding gets quite a bit stronger; all I will say is that make sure you have enough battens to attach to, with gaps between them ideally being no bigger than 30 or 40cm.
For the 3 doors on the van, we glued and nailed cladding onto 6mm plywood, then cut these big pieces to the exact shape and screwed them straight into the doors.
This means that if we need to get to the mechanics inside of the door in the future, then we can simply take the screws out and remove the necessary piece.
In fact, each door is made up of 3 individual pieces that slot together to create a seamless look, and we’re quite happy with it.
The only thing I will say, is that this adds a fair bit of weight to the doors, and you can definitely feel it on the sliding door.
In retrospect, I would have cladded 3mm ply instead as it would have reduced the weight slightly and still been as strong.
If you want to save even more weight, then there are other approaches you can take, I recommend searching on the Self Build Campervan group on Facebook to see what others have done; this was just the idea that I came up with at the time.
Step 13: Build the structures
Here’s where the build gets exciting, because it’s time to start building the things you will actually use in your DIY campervan conversion!
For us, this meant building in:
- Kitchen - with a sink, space for oven and cupboards
- Clothes cupboards x 2
- Space for the fridge
- A floating bed
- Garage area
- A second guest double bed
I am by no means an experienced carpenter, but I am pretty darn happy with how everything turned out.
Everything is strong and solid and serves its purpose.
I will just go ahead and list some of the main tools and components we used to build each part.
- Rear stud wall made from 3”x2” wooden battens (definitely overkill)
- Side walls made from 12mm plywood
- PVC cladding (DBS Bathrooms)
- Ceiling cladding (DBS Bathrooms)
- 15mm push fit plastic hose running through ceiling
- Bristan Bar Valve Wall Mount Fixing Kit (Screwfix)
- Thermostatic mixer shower (Screwfix)
- 58.5cm x 58.5cm shower tray (Jacksons Leisure) - The smallest we could find and literally the perfect size, to within millimetres!!
Useful video: Building the shower in our camper
- 4”x2” timber battens fixed into structural beams on the side of the van
- 5 x 3”x2” timber battens acting as slats across the top
- Sheet of 12mm plywood across the top, with holes cut in for ventilation
- Mattress from eFoam
- Work surfaces - 18mm Pine timber board, stained and treated with Osmo
- Cupboards - Built mostly from 34x34mm wooden PSE timber, door fronts made from cladded 6mm ply, and T hinges (Wickes) and handles (Amazon)
- Sink - The biggest possible one we could find to fit the space (Screwfix)
- Voyager 4500 oven/hob (Jacksons Leisure) - purpose made for campers/boats
- Made from the same 34cm x 34cm PSE timber
- Fronts made in same way as kitchen area
Useful video: Building cupboards in our van conversion
Step 14: Create a water system
I literally had no idea how this was supposed to work until a few days before it became essential that we needed one!
It definitely would have helped to have a firm understanding before, as I could have properly planned out how and where water would run, and how this affects the placement of different elements.
But in the end, our setup of appliances changed quite significantly based on regulations as to where our water heater had to be placed; but we ended up with a pretty efficient setup, space-wise.
Here’s the basic gist of how our campervan water system works:
- 70 litre water tank stores all of our fresh water & can be filled by hose through filling point in rear of van
- Water is pumped out of this using a 30PSI Shurflo water pump (runs on 12v)
- This pumps water out of the tank, through an accumulator and then “T”’s off to our water heater and onto the front of the van
- The water heater has a hot outlet that runs parallel to the cold feet through to the front of the van, all underneath the bed
- Each feed then has a “Y” connector which goes either on towards the shower or onto the sink
- If you need to run water through the system, then you simply turn on the water pump using a switch that is wired above the sink
- To heat water, you just flick the switch that is also above the sink (takes 10-20 minutes depending on whether you heat with gas, electric or both)
- All hose is ½ inch (12mm) food grade and bought from this shop here: red / blue
- To hold the hose onto fittings, they are all secured with jubilee clips (hose clips)
- We have an underslung waste water tank, that is filled with 3/4inch waste pipe coming from the sink and shower
Step 15: Install gas
In the end, installing the gas system was the biggest headache of the entire campervan conversion for us.
Finding a reliable gas engineer to talk us through our system and to check it was all properly installed was a nightmare, and we were let down by 4 different people.
My approach was to go through the Gas Safe Register and find engineers that have the “caravan” & “LPG” qualification.
The problem is that not a single person I spoke to had ever actually used any of these qualifications.
In the end, we managed to get ahold of someone from the MCEA (Mobile Caravan Engineer Association).
Finally, we were able to find someone who actually had experience with campervans and had previously installed the various appliances we had purchased.
So, if you need to find an engineer, which you should as it’s likely your van insurance will be invalid without a certificate from one, then I suggest you take this same route and avoid anyone who hasn’t actually used their caravan or LPG tickets before.
Our current gas setup is more advanced than what we had originally:
- We now have a 25 litre underslung LPG tank, which we bought as a full set designed for the Peugeot Boxer chassis, from Autogas 2000
- This connects onto our Truma motorhome regulator which then comes up and into the van.
- We have a 3 way manifold attached that has a separate gas line leading off to each appliance (air heater, water heater & oven)
- This canister can be refilled at any Autogas/LPG stop around Europe, and there is a fill point that sits on the lip of the van
For the first few months, our setup included an onboard 15kg tank and all of the appliances on one gas line. The issue was that our heater had a fault so we had to remove it. In doing so it messed up our entire system! Under the new setup (with the manifold) we are able to isolate each appliance individually if there are any problems.
Better yet, it free up a whole cupboard worth of space!
(P.s. The best way to get your 8mm pipe and compression fittings is through BES. They sell proper Wade fittings which are gas suitable. Our original setup had fittings from Screwfix and these only caused us problems as they are not meant for gas.)
The reason that we currently have a Homebase LPG canister in the van is that it’s the only bottle we could get ahold of during the whole covid situation (Calor had stopped issuing new contracts).
The problem with our current setup is that it does take up quite a bit of space in the living area.
So the plan in the very near future is to install an underslung LPG canister (like this) under the van.
These can then be refilled all across Europe (and the rest of the world) as long as you have the correct local adaptor.
You cannot do this with Calor or Homebase/Flogas canisters, so if you plan to head abroad then it’s best to get a refillable canister.
They are very expensive to buy, but then a fraction of the price to refill.
Installing gas in a campervan
Here’s a few rules that we learned and that need to be followed when fitting gas in a campervan
- All appliances need to be “hard plumbed”, meaning they are connected with copper pipe (usually all 8mm)
- All fittings should be compression fittings
- If you have a gas bottle inside the van, then it needs to be inside of a sealed locker space with a drop vent in the ground
- Most other gas appliances (e.g. air heater and water heater) need to be in a sealed unit with a drop vent through the chassis as well
Based on what we’ve read, it is definitely best to bring in a trained engineer to advise you when fitting these appliances and then to check your system afterwards.
Not only will it possibly save your life, but it will also mean you don’t run into any insurance issues if a few months down the line your van burns down because you installed something incorrectly.
Oh yeah, and remember to buy a carbon monoxide alarm!
Step 16: Add the finishing touches
Once you get this far it should just be a case of putting in some finishing touches to make your van more homely.
This is entirely personal and up to the finished look you want to achieve; but here’s some links to a few things we decided to add to our van:
- Table - Basic 18mm plywood cut to size with foldable leg (I highly recommend this one)
- Fake ivy/plants (perfect for hiding those dodgy edges in your woodwork!)
- Stickgoo tiles for the kitchen splashback
- Magnetic knife holder (nothing falls off when driving)
- Magnetic spice holders for fridge
- World map shower curtain cut down to size
- Thermal curtains to help retain heat
Useful video: Decorating our campervan <-- Final video in the van build series!
Step 17: Submit it to the DVLA
Once your conversion is finished it’s time to submit it to the DVLA and reclassify the vehicle from being a van to a motorhome.
You’ll probably need to do this in order to meet the requirements of your chosen insurer.
Our insurer gave us a 3 month conversion period in order to get the van finished, submitted to the DVLA and to get a response.
As long as we met the required guidelines for converting to a campervan, our insurer didn’t mind if our application to have the van reclassified as a campervan was denied.
DVLA requirements for reclassifying as a motorhome
If you're converting a van into a campervan, it’s important that you check the DVLAs official guidelines as these do change over time.
At the time of our submission (October 2020), the DVLA required us to meet a number of different criteria both inside and outside of the van.
Such as ...
- A bed system (can be fixed or collapsible)
- A fixed table (can be removable)
- Cooking facilities
- Windows on at least two sides of the vehicle
- An awning
- Motorhome style graphics
Failing to reclassify
It’s worth pointing out here that the vast majority of requests for reclassification were being denied by the time we submitted our request.
This started sometime in late 2019/early 2020 when the government changed it’s guidelines and became a lot stricter.
We learned this from various Facebook groups where the discussions on this topic happened on a near daily basis with everyone complaining that they had been failed despite ticking all of the boxes.
It all comes down to one simple fact … your van must look like a campervan in traffic in order to be properly reclassified.
Most conversions, particularly ours, fail to really look like a campervan, but instead look like a “van with windows”, which is what our classification came back with.
In the official letter we received, they said that inside we had met all the requirements and the DVLA were happy for us to use the van for motorhome purposes, however from the outside it didn’t look enough like a motorhome in order to pass.
We have seen a number of vans, with big graphics and 3 or 4 large windows be failed and still only reclassified as a “van with windows”.
It comes down to things like using “motorhome windows” which are different to the bonded window that you see on our van.
Basically, it shouldn’t be an issue as long as you are clear and upfront with your insurers.
How to convert a van into a campervan: final thoughts
Well, that’s about it!
If you read that whole thing, then congrats; it ended up being pretty epic.
Turns out I had a lot to get off my chest, I definitely feel better now … and breathe …
Remember, you can find the full 13 week build series on our YouTube channel.
Now over to you ...
Do you have any questions that you couldn't find answers to above?
Or do you have any tips you think we missed out on?
Drop me a comment below, I'd love to hear from you!